A Trip down memory lane with Shivsaahir Babasaheb Purandhare

Trip to Shivneri, with Lenyadri and Ozar was not at all a trekking expedition but it was a magnificent opportunity for all those who respect and adore Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and also a lifetime event to hear it all from Shivsahir Babasaheb Purandare. The name Shivshahir Babasaheb Purandare is known to the whole of Maharashtra for his extensive knowledge on Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. So when I read the advertisement of Sachin Travel regarding their plan to Shivneri I just couldn’t miss the golden chance.

I (Ganesh Nabar) along with a friend (Mangesh Dhaimade) enrolled us to the program of Lenyadri, Ozar and Shivneri. It was a two-day program starting on 10^th of April and ending on 11^th of April. The places to be visited were in the Taluka Junnar (Junna Nagar as it was called earlier).

We were informed at the beginning of the trip that after having lunch at Lenyadri we would proceeded to Ozar (which is one of the Ashtavinyak Temple). After our return from Ozar we would have to climb to the Temple of Lenyadri. Lenyadri is also one of the famous Eight Ganpati (Ashtavinyak) Temples in Maharashtra. We were also informed that Babasaheb Purandare will have a discussion with us in the evening before our visit to Shivneri Fort. This was something in addition to Babasaheb Purandare accompanying us to Shivneri. So all of us were excited to see Babasaheb Purandare and more than that were more thrilled to hear the historic stories about Shivaji Maharaj.

Our trip started at 7.30 a.m. in the morning from Shivaji Park. We had a small breakfast at the outskirts of Kalyan and proceeded towards Lenyadri via Murbad, Malshej road. On the way we could see many historic places like Naneghat, Harishchandragad etc.

We reached Lenyadri just in time for our lunch. Getting out of the bus for the first time we felt the sun hitting down upon us and could feel the intensity of the summer. But we didn’t mind the heat, as we were more excited to hear Babasaheb speak.

After lunch we immediately proceeded to Ozar, which is around 10 Kms from Junnar. The idol of Shri Vighneshwar was appealing and pleasant. The temple surroundings were also neat and kept clean.Ashtavinayak Temple at Ozar

The temple is famous for its Deepmala. The Kukdi River flows near the temple and people may find time for some boating in this river during the evenings. After the darshan of Vighneshwar and a small arti we proceeded towards Girijatmaja Ganpati at Lenyadri.

Deepmala at Ozar

The Ashtavinyak temple at Lenyadri is the only temple situated in the hills and is around 5 kms from Junnar.

Caves at Lenyadri seen from below

Girijatmaja Vinayak's temple is in the 8th of 18 Buddhist caves and the temple cave is known as Ganesh Gufa. It is located on a mountain, and one has to climb around 300 steps to reach the top. In front of the main mandir there is a large hall. The main mandir hall is 7 feet high and has 6 stone pillars with cows, elephants and other animals carved on them. Girijatmaja's idol faces east and is carved out of the stone wall of the cave.

Girijatmaja Idol at Lenyadri

We started our climb at around 4.30 p.m. We could climb to the temple within 25 minutes. The Climb was exhausting on account of the summer and everyone of us were feeling thirsty. Even the monkeys who stayed around the hills could feel the temperatures rising and were snatching the water bottles, coconuts and grapes from the hands of devotes. The Devotes had to be very careful in carrying the bottles to the temple and even while climbing down and we could hear lots of screams and shouts from the devotes who were climbing up the temple and were taken completely by surprise when the monkeys pounced on the bottles.

A Mineral Water Thirsty Monkey

On reaching th e dormitory, we relaxed for around an hour or so before we were informed that the Chief Guest of the program, Shivsahir Babasaheb Purandare will be reaching the venue in another 10 minutes. We immediately sprung in action and ran to catch the first seats to hear the learned man speak. The organizers informed us that it would be an informal chat session with Babasaheb Purandare and we were free to clarify our doubts. But before we could do, Babasaheb gave us an idea of the area we were staying.

Babasaheb at Lenyadri

He said that it was like straight out of some Bollywood or a Hollywood flick where the greatest of the enemies (Aurangzeb and Shivaji Maharaj) spent their childhood in same area/ Locality i.e. Junnar. Babasaheb was speaking clearly but from the voice we could understand that the age had taken toll on the great man. He continued to tell us that it was in 1620 A.D. when Shahjahan with his wife Mumtaz Mahal and 2 year old son Aurangazeb sought refuge of Nizamshah, who had his capital in Ahmednagar, after revolting from his father Jahangir, the Emperor at that time. Aurangzeb spent 3 years of his childhood period in Junnar at a place called Happshi Baug (presently know as Hapus Baug). Little did he know at that time that his greatest enemy would be born in a fort just a few miles away.

After a brief introduction about Junnar, the participants were called upon to ask their queries about History and Shivaji Maharaj. It was the most wonderful experience hearing Babasaheb speak. It was like he had so much to tell about Shivaji Maharaj and all we could do is to hear him speak. One of the Participants inquired about the dispute about the date of birth of Shivaji Maharaj. Babasaheb Purandare replied that the date is calculated from the Horoscope of Shivaji Maharaj which was found in Rajasthan. He informed us that the Astrologer Vyas had accompanied Mirza Raje Jaisingh when he came down to Maharashtra to defeat Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. The Astrologers always have a habit of studying the horoscopes of all the great men and may be out of curiosity Astrologer Vyas may have studied the Horoscope of Shivaji Maharaj. The Historians visited the native place of Astrologer Vyas where his descendants live. All the documents compiled by astrologer vyas were kept neatly by his descendents and hence the historians could find the horoscope of Shivaji Maharaj. The date of Birth which was as per Hindu Calendar in the horoscope and when matched with English Calendar the Historians found the date 19^th February, 1630 as the date of Birth of Shivaji Maharaj. We hardly could realise how time flew and now it was dinner time. The dinner too was delicious and more fitting to the place we were staying (Zhunka-Bhakar with Mirchicha thecha……sluuurrrrppppp).

It was pretty hot at this point of year and we could barely sleep and to top it all there was load-shedding for 15 minutes to play a spoil sport.

The next day inspite of insufficient sleep we were ready and fresh to climb Shivneri fort, the birth place of Shivaji Maharaj and to hear Babasaheb. Around 8.30 we reached at the foot of Shivneri which was around 8-9 Kms from Lenyadri.

Map of Shivneri Fort

On the climb to the fort we encountered Mahadarwaja, Ganesh Darwaja, Hatti Darwaja, Mena Darwaja, Kulup Darwaja besides a couple of water tanks. There was a small Shivling carved inside the rock near the water tanks near Hatti Darwaja. The stone built route lead us to the main fort.

On reaching the main fort we could see 3 to 4 structures. We were told to be seated inside a hall which had pleasing statues of Jijabai and Shivaji Maharaj. Babasaheb Purandare had already reached the spot for his discourse.

Babasaheb started telling tales of this Triangular fort. Babasaheb stated that this fort is situated in the vicinity of Bhimashankar, Lenyadri, Ozar, Nane Ghat, Mahuli, Jivdhan, Bhairavgad, Chawand, Narayangad, Hadsar. It is surrounded by various forts as well has a few sacrad and religious places around it. The Fort is seperated from the main range of Sahyadris. The construction of this fort may have been started during the Satvahan era. Thereafter Babasaheb went on to tell us as to Why Shahaji Raje selected this fort for the birth of Shivaji Maharaj?

Shivneri Fort, it is one of the most strongest of the Fort in Maharashtra with sound Fortifications and bastallions (Tat ani Buruj). To reach the main Fort (balle Killa) the enemy has to cross 7 big Doors and the most important was the Killedar who was a relative of Shahaji Raje. Besides, Shivneri was a very tough fort to win, so tough that even Shivaji Maharaj was not able to win it after making three attempts. The Fort even now has some structures like Kamani Masjid, the place where Shivaji Maharaj was born (though Babasaheb disputed and said that this must be the place where the Killedar or the King used to call for Darbar, but he added that the place where Shivaji Maharaj was born was somewhere nearby), the Fountain structures still exisit, the Hamamkhana, Badami Talao, Kadelotacha Burj (from where capital punishment used to by given to culprits), Shivai Temple, the Buddhist Caves, etc. Talking about the Buddhist Caves, these Caves are situated on the south, east and west side of Shivneri and have 3 Chaityagruha, 78 Vihars, 3 common rooms and 60 water tanks. After paying respects to Shivai devi, we visited the Buddhist Caves on the South side of the fort, which had a Chaityagruha. The other common room had a Foundation stone which mentioned the name of the community which donated for building the Bhojanmandap (lunch room).

The Structures on ShivneriBuddhist Caves at Shivneri

Now, we started realising that our messmerising trip with Babasaheb was coming to an end. With heavy hearts we returned back from Shivneri to Lenyadri for Lunch. But the events kept rolling in front of our eyes. It was like a dream come true to both of us and would surely treasure this memory as one of the most valuable moments of our life.